Get away from the usual tourist holiday beat, as you bike into the France less traveled. Peaceful riverside roads, villages frozen in time, and grand chateaux await you.

France's famous Loire River has a little brother: Le Loir, which weaves through a pastoral region whose enchanting villages and broad meadows have won it the nickname "La Douce France" (Gentle France).

This Loir, too, has its historic chateaux and colorful gardens, all the more charming for their peaceful and uncrowded surroundings. This holiday trip gives you the best of both rivers. We begin along the smaller Loir, stopping at an creaking mill by the river, whose aging owner is proud to show that he can still grind out flour; and at one of the valley's most charming, yet unknown villages: Troo, whose citizens live in homes carved right into the rock. Practice your bonjours  first: We've been invited inside on several occasions.

We end at two of the valley's most famous creations: Chateau Chambord, so enormous that King Francois I nearly bankrupted himself to get it built; and the castle at Blois, constructed over such a longer period that it encompasses styles ranging from 13th century feudal to gothic-Renaissance and decorative Italianate.

Holiday Highlights:

• Bike along the tranquil Loir river to the picturesque village of Troo, riddled by underground caves, tunnels, and even homes.
• Explore the 1000-year-old castle at Chateaudun, perched high on a river bluff.
• Stroll down a flower-lined canal in Vendome, known as "Little Venice".
• Walk the medieval streets of such forgotten towns as fortified Lavardin, and Meung-sur-Loire where Joan of Arc won an important victory.
• Picnic at the largest of the Loire chateaux: the 440-room Chambord designed by Leonardo da Vinci; then wander its nook-filled roof, where you'll feel like a pawn on a giant chessboard.